Vietnam and Thailand Travel Guide: 3-Weeks in Hanoi, Ha Long Bay, Ha Giang, Ninh Binh, Phong Nha, Hoi An + Koh Phi Phi, Railay, Krabi, Chiang Mai

Though Vietnam was not always on our bucket list of travel destinations, it quickly rose to top after reading more about the amazing hiking, culture, and food that this country had to offer. Plus, pho was always my go-to comfort food in the winter (with spring rolls being my go-to food in the summer!) so we were super excited to finally take a cooking class there. It was an incredible 3 weeks in Vietnam and Thailand - we got to ride motorbikes through the mountain passes of Ha Giang, spend a night in Ha Long Bay, explore temples in Ninh Binh, trek through a jungle to camp in a cave, watch the lanterns light up Hoi An, swim in the clearest blue waters of Pileh Lagoon, rock climb at Railay Beach, and hang out with elephants near Chiang Mai. Check out the rest of our 3-week Vietnam and Thailand itinerary below!

​Tips for Visiting Vietnam & Thailand

• Research the visa requirements ahead of time. For Vietnam, we needed a visa to enter the country so we applied for the e-visa which costs $25. The process is pretty easy and quick. We did end up having to get the e-visa twice, because we flew in and out of Thailand on a different airline with checked baggage and had to re-enter Vietnam to get our baggage and check in again for our flight home. For Thailand, we did not need a visa.
• Figure out how you want to get cash. Both Vietnam and Thailand primarily use cash rather than credit card, even for hotels or tours. Some may allow credit card but add a fee. We applied for a Charles Schwab checking account prior to our trip, which is free and rebates all ATM fees. Make sure to use your bank's exchange rate and not the ATM's exchange rate! Alternatively, you can bring cash instead of withdrawing from an ATM (clean $100 bills are usually best).
• Get a local SIM card. For Vietnam, we purchased the Viettel Tourist SIM Card which has the best coverage. For Thailand, we purchased the DTAC Tourist eSIM (which was great because we activated it as soon as we landed and didn't need to find a store!) We purchased one SIM card for each country and used the personal hotspot so that we could both use data. Wifi is also widely available - most restaurants and cafes have their wifi login info posted.
• Use WhatsApp to text/call local places. Since it's free to text and call other WhatsApp numbers as long as you have wifi or cellular data, we used it often to provide updates on pick up times, communicate with tour companies, book ferries, etc. We also used LINE in Thailand, but found WhatsApp more common and easier to use.
• Use taxi apps. Grab is the main taxi app in Vietnam, while Bolt and Grab are used in Thailand (we found Bolt much less expensive). You can add a credit/debit card or use cash to pay with Grab, but our Chase credit card couldn't be verified so we ended up using the Charles Schwab debit card. Bolt uses cash. For some situations where we didn't have cash on hand or wanted a quick pick-up from the airport, we prearranged rides online or with our hotel.​
• Watch the weight restrictions on cheap flights. We typically travel with carry on only, but had to check in our baggage on every flight because they were over the carry on weight limit. While we never saw luggage weighed at the gate, we figured the relief of not having to worry about it was worth it.
• Bring toilet paper and learn to use the bidet. Because pipes in Southeast Asia tend to be smaller, toilet paper cannot be flushed. You'll want to use the bidet and dry with toilet paper. Many bathrooms didn't have toilet paper, so it's always good to bring a roll of your own.
• Take water bottles with you during the day. Most hotels and tours will provide water bottles, so you'll want to take them with you during the day as tap water is unsafe to drink. We also brought a Grayl purifier bottle as a backup, but didn't end up using it much.
• Bargain when shopping at night markets. Bargaining is part of the culture, so don't feel guilty as it's completely normal. We only bargained if the price was not listed. Many vendors will sell the same products, so it's smart to visit a few different stalls before making a purchase. After getting a price, many vendors will lower the price as you attempt to leave. Remember how much you are bargaining for though - sometimes it's just for a small difference of $1-2 and may not make that much of a difference to you.
• Be careful of what you eat. We ended up getting Bangkok Belly, a mild form of food poisoning that typically happens after eating street food that isn't cooked thoroughly. We bought activated charcoal tablets from 7-11 to combat the food poisoning, and luckily symptoms were resolved within 24 hours.

​Day 1: Hanoi, Vietnam

• Start your morning with the famous egg coffee at Cafe Giang
• Have morning pho with the locals at Pho Suong
• Grab lunch and try banh xeo and bun cha at Hoang Hoai's Restaurant
• Try the Hanoi specialty bun cha at Bun Cha Ta Hanoi
• Have a craft beer with Asian-inspired flavors at Pasteur Street Brewing
• Shop for rattan goods at Hao's Handmade
• Book an overnight sleeper bus with your own cabin for a decent night's sleep to get to Ha Giang​

​Day 2-5: Ha Giang Loop, Vietnam

• Ride pilllion (as passengers) with QT Motorbikes and Tours
• See the famous mountain and river views at Tu San Coffee

When we planned our trip, we actually never intended on going on the Ha Giang Loop. Our original plan was to stay at Topas Ecolodge in Sapa, a beautiful retreat in the mountains with an infinity swimming pool. Unfortunately we had to cancel our reservation because it was hit by a heavy storm and wouldn't be repaired until after our trip, but fortunately we ended up motorbiking the Ha Giang Loop which became one of the highlights of our entire trip! We were originally very apprehensive about it because it sounded pretty dangerous (our only other experience was driving on a Vespa tour in Florence), but we were relieved to find that we could ride as passengers instead.

We are so glad we went with QT Motorbikes, as our driver Pao - a local who grew up in the area - showed us so many hidden gems that we wouldn't have known about! Every day was filled with morning rides amongst the clouds, afternoon coffee stops overlooking the mountains, and evening hikes to rice paddy fields and waterfalls. It was most definitely one of the highlights of our entire trip, and we highly recommend it to anyone visiting Vietnam.

​Day 6-7: Ha Long Bay / Bai Tu Long Bay, Vietnam

• Sail into the less travelled but just as beautiful Bai Tu Long Bay​
• Visit the floating houses and countless dogs at the Vung Vieng Fishing Village

Ha Long Bay was one of the first attractions that drew us to Vietnam. Though originally we thought about doing the 3 day tour, we read some reviews that said that 2 days was enough. We chose to do a 2 day 1 night tour with Indochina Junk, a company that specializes in sailing Bai Tu Long Bay. This bay is less travelled compared to Ha Long Bay, but (based on the photos!) just as beautiful. Note the schedule when you book your tour - our boat didn't actually start sailing until 1 PM, and arrived back on land at 12 PM so it was closer to a 24-hour rather than 2 day tour.

One of our favorite parts about the cruise was that the views were everywhere. No matter when or where we were sailing, we would pass by countless little islands all dotted along our route. We were served full course seafood meals (but all drinks cost extra), and stayed in a cute little cabin onboard. Overall, we enjoyed our time but it was definitely a much more luxury focused tour rather than an adventure focused one!

​Day 8-9: Ninh Binh, Vietnam

• Stay in a treehouse at Trang An Lamia Bungalow
• Start your morning early to avoid the crowds and climb up the many stairs of Hang Mua Caves to see the famous viewpoint overlooking the mountains
• Explore the tiered pagodas nestled within the cave at Bich Dong Pagoda
• Take a boat ride through many caves at Trang An
• Explore the lesser known Am Tien Pagoda
• Get dinner after 6 PM for the roasted duck at Family Restaurant

Ninh Binh, also known as Ha Long Bay on land, was another last minute addition to our trip. We had originally planned on skipping it, but read many blogs that said that it was worth going. So we took a bus ride from Ha Long to Ninh Binh, and stayed at a romantic treehouse bungalow that reminded us of our honeymoon in Bali. It was a lovely day and a half spent sipping Vietnamese coffee on the patio, petting the sweet dogs who loved curling up on the chairs, afternoon spent hiking up mountains and taking boat rides through caves, and evening spent eating roasted duck and spring rolls before taking a little swing in our hammock before bed.

​Day 10-11: Phang Nga National Park, Vietnam

• Get ready for a true adventure and hike 13 miles with over 30 river crossings over 2 days to camp in Hang En Cave, the 3rd largest cave in the world, with Oxalis Adventure

Hang Én, Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, the 3rd largest cave in the world. 13 miles over 2 days, with one night spent camping in the cave. This jungle trek was definitely not easy - it started off with a steep muddy trail where we barely held our balance and fended off leeches (they were no joke, Keith ended up getting one bite through his socks). This was then followed by over 30 river crossings that had strong currents and were sometimes waist high. But funnily enough, though we were originally worried about hiking in wet shoes and socks the entire time, we ended up looking forward to every river crossing to clean off our mud-caked shoes and pants. We’ll never forget the memories of seeing the cave campsite for the first time, sitting around the fire telling stories with our new friends, feasting under the lantern lights, soaking in a DIY sauna, linking arms in a line and feeling the pull of the river, exploring the fossils on the cave walls and travertine steps, the tour guides engaging in a fierce rock skipping competition, and all of us making it back up in one piece now bonded by this experience.

​Day 12-13: Hue + Hoi An, Vietnam

• Start your morning with Phin Coffee
• Have the famous sandwiches at Banh Mi Phuong
• Walk the Hoi An night market and watch the river light up with colorful boats and lanterns
• Get custom made clothing tailored to you in 24 hours at one of the many tailor shops
• Learn Vietnamese dishes with Green Bamboo Cooking Class

Hoi An is famous for its tailor shops - most shops can turnaround custom clothing based purely off of photos you provide in just a day. Custom suits are one of the most common things to buy, since the price is so much less than what you would pay in the US. But choosing a tailor shop in Hoi An is extremely overwhelming, as there are countless shops all right next to each other. A few things we learned:

• Save photos of what you are looking for. The more specific, the better! This will help you get accurate quotes and better results.
• Research shops ahead of time on Google and Tripadvisor and get quotes by messaging them beforehand. You can send photos of what you want and get quotes without being pressured. For linen clothing, I was quoted in USD anywhere from $12-$65 for a shirt, $15-$85 for pants, and $16-$125 for a dress (2022 pricing).
• Be cautious of recommendations. Everyone and anyone will give you a recommendation for a shop, and tell you to provide their name for a discount. While this may be a good recommendation, most hotels/drivers/tour companies get a commission and you may be quoted a higher price to cover that commission. Get prices ahead of time by messaging them and don't tell them you were recommended from someone until the bargaining phase - this way you will know the difference in price.
• Be prepared to bargain. Because there is so much competition for tailor shops, you can get a better price if you shop around or buy more pieces.
• Make time for fittings. We made the order with the shop in the evening, and did an afternoon fitting and an evening fitting the next day. Don't be afraid to speak up if you need something changed.

We had already purchased a custom suit in Hanoi since we had more time to go back there for fittings, but we did end up purchasing 3 dresses, 2 shirts, and 1 pair of pants even just within the 24 hours that we had in Hoi An. Pricingwise, we went with a mid-range tailor and were happy with the results. All the pieces turned out beautifully, and were ones that we had trouble getting in the states (they were mostly based off of Etsy pieces, which we didn't want to order online due to worries about sizing). They lined the dresses and made sure they all had pockets (truly the real reason for custom clothing - pockets in dresses!) All in all, we had a positive experience even though it had been stressful trying to choose a tailor, especially not knowing if we had been priced fairly since we had limited time to shop around.

As for the cooking class, it was one of the main reasons we decided to Hoi An (before we even knew about the tailor shops!) We had researched cooking classes extensively because we wanted a serious class, and decided to book Green Bamboo Cooking Class because every person was given their own dish to learn and prepare. We loved getting to learn such a diverse variety of dishes, and learned so much about Vietnamese cooking and techniques. The two dishes we were most excited (and chose to learn!) were beef pho and bánh xèo, but even we were surprised by how much we loved all the other dishes we got to try. At the end of the class, we were given a full cookbook of all the dishes we learned and long chopsticks as a souvenir.

​Day 14: Phuket, Thailand

• Stay a night at one of Sametnangshe Boutique's suite villas, where you can soak in a tub tub with a stunning view and watch the sunrise the next morning

The last time we came to Thailand was on our honeymoon, and we had stayed at budget hotels and homestays. This time around, we had a higher budget and knew that Thailand was one of the best places to book 5-star hotels for an affordable price. We had seen photos of Sametnangshe Boutique on Instagram a while back, and decided to book 1 night at the suite villa for...drumroll please...$170 USD. Hot tip for planning a trip on a budget: Compare hotel prices on different websites - Agoda ended up being the cheapest option for most of our Thailand stays. You can also check Retailmenot Cashback for additional money back on your booking.

This beautiful room complete with a patio and tub view of Sametnangshe Viewpoint and a delicious breakfast overlooking the sunrise was the perfect way to start off the Thailand leg of our trip. Though it was cloudy and rainy the day we arrived, we got to see the vibrant orange colors of the sunrise the morning before taking a taxi out to the pier for the next part of our journey.

​Day 15-16: Koh Phi Phi, Thailand

• Take a speedboat to Tonsai Pier in Koh Phi Phi
• See reef sharks and colorful fish while scuba diving with Phi Phi Barrakuda
• Rent a private longtail boat starting at sunrise to see Maya Bay, Pi Leh Lagoon, Monkey Beach, and Bamboo Island​

We had seen an Instagram video of the Koh Phi Phi Islands, and yes we admittedly got sucked in and it was what made us decide to end our trip in Thailand (we had considered the Maldives, Cambodia, Laos since flights were all relatively cheap). But Instagram did live up to reality! We booked a longtail boat at 6am and got to see the most incredible pink and orange sunrise as we made our way out. It was well worth the early wake up call to get to see so many places without the crowds. Pi Leh Lagoon was our favorite stop - the waters were the most vibrant aquamarine blue, and it was so shallow we could stand in the water. It was also a great snorkeling spot - we even saw 5 little reef sharks!

​Day 17-18: Railay Beach, Thailand

• Watch the sunrise at Railay East Beach and sunset at Railay West Beach
• Walk through a cave at Phra Nang Cave Beach
• Try one of the many rock climbing routes with Railay Rock Climbing Shop

After Koh Phi Phi, we didn't think it could get more beautiful, but it was definitely worth the stop at Railay Beach to get to walk along the sandy beaches in the early mornings before the crowds. We went to Phra Nang Cave Beach the first morning, where we got to wade in the warm waters without a single other soul in sight. Since Railay Beach is so well known for its rock climbing routes, we decided to try our hand at top rope climbing after seeing a climber out of our balcony that morning. It was much more difficult than we imagined, but we were proud of ourselves for making it to the top even if we left with a few scrapes and many mosquito bites.

​Day 19-21: Chiang Mai, Thailand

• Stay a night at the bamboo a-frame (book early!) at Chai Lai Orchid, where you can feed elephants in the morning and support the local community through its partnership with nonprofit Daughters Rising
• Try the famous Northern dish khao soi at Khao Soi Khun Yai or Khao Soi Maesai
• Learn how to make pad thai, tom yum, pineapple fried rice, and mango sticky rice with A Taste of Thai
• Stop for a coffee break at Japanese inspired Koff & Things.th

Chai Lai Orchid is an elephant rescue camp that gives all of its proceeds to an anti-trafficking nonprofit that provides education and employment to women. We did a lot of research before deciding to come here, especially knowing that there was a lot of misinformation about ethical elephant sanctuaries. It’s a tricky balance because the elephants can’t be legally released into the wild, so many of them were at risk of starvation or being sold due to the pandemic halting tourism. We were happy to find that the elephants were all in good care with their mahouts, their elephant caretakers, and that the local community was being supported by the work they do. Seeing these gentle giants stroll along the river was certainly a sight to behold. And a big thank you to Pern Photography, who not only documented our experience beautifully but made it all the more memorable by leaving as new friends over chats about photography, good coffee, and good food.